„Pouhým podáním této přihlášky se výrazně zvyšují šance, že vás v 30měsíční ochranné lhůtě, kdy máte na vaše technické řešení exkluzivitu, osloví potenciální investor nebo kupec. Firmy jsou často ochotny za nemalé sumy odkoupit řešení již ve fázi patentové přihlášky,“
Lightly waxed for hand stitching and corded for strength, Fil au Chinois Lin Câblé is probably the best linen thread in the world. Used by Hermès, Louis Vuitton and us. Made in France.
Cablé linen (corded linen) is twisted linen which is assembled a second
time, moistened and re-twisted. This moistening prevents the linen
fibres from distorting. Cabling increases the resistance, giving a
nicely rounded thread generally used in luxury leather goods. It's a
luxury thread which can be used for quality jewelry making, DIY...
Cablé
linen, corded linen, is a high quality thread. As with all the products
from Fil Au Chinois, this quality product is entirely MADE IN FRANCE.
If you are looking for the thread used by Hermes, it is Câblé linen,
which sized from No. 332 up to No. 832. No. 532 is used on Birkin and
Kelly bags. However, if the wholesaler in your country is not importing
this product line, more likely you would have to purchase from
Sajou.fr.
By the way, the length of each spool stated on Sajou.fr are not
correct, it is not always 133 meters per spool. You can find correct
information on their "Printed Colour Chart" which is listed on 3rd page
of Professional Threads...
In
addition, No. 532 is pretty thin thread, Hermes uses No. 10 (2.7mm) and
No. 9 (3 mm) claws from Vergez Blanchard, just for your reference. Finally,
Lin Retors Extra comes in one size only, judging from the length of
each 50g spool, 350 meters, the diameter of the thread would land on
somewhere in between 0.51mm-0.43mm (Cable Linen No. 632-832). If you
are planning to make fine, long lasting leather work, Cable Linen would
be the choice.
Tiger Polyester Braided Thread Waxed
Also known as Ritza 25 this is very strong braided polyester thread
which is waxed for hand sewing. Manufactured by Danish company Julius
Koch
A quick comparison of Amy Roke Radiant yellow linen sizes and red 632 Lin Cablè. Top row is AR 532, middle 632, and bottom is 832. Sewn at nine stitches per inch
Some thread at work. 632 left 832 right. 9 stitches per inch - amyrokelinenusa
We have a chart
that shows our different thread thicknesses in the same 9tpi stitch
count. 0.1mm doesn’t seem like a lot, but you can see the difference in
thickness, especially side by side.
(Number 9tpi = Nine Teeth per Inch)
I recommend 532 or 632 thread at 9tpi if you’re going to use just one
size of pricking iron and thread.
The 9tpi is an all-around good size
for both bags and accessories. This is what I use the majority of the
time and it works great for finer work.
If you’re going to 7tpi, I recommend the thicker 332. The smaller
threads don’t look great at low stitch counts and won’t hold the seam as
long. The 332 looks good for larger work like handbags and duffels.
Again, you can use 9tpi and 632 for larger work, but some styles match
better with the thicker look.
If you’re going to use 6tpi or larger, I’d actually recommend a
different line of thread that has thicker sizes. I don’t see the larger
sizes used much in luxury/fine work, though they are often used in more
rugged styles.
If you’re doing very fine work like watch straps, I’d recommend 832
at 10 or 11 tpi. This gives a more delicate feel to the work and the
thread looks more appropriate to the size of the project.
Recently I did a tear-down of a luxury bag and saw that there were
two thread thicknesses being used on different parts.
They used the
equivalent of 332 for the straps and handles at 7tpi, and 632 at 9 tpi
for the rest. The size difference seemed to be more for aesthetics since
both would hold up equally well.
Small details make finer work
Making finer work is all about the details. There are often many
small differences that separate the very best work from its competitors.
Our thread is re-twisted to make it a little bit denser than others.
You would think that the difference would be minor but, as others have
confirmed, it really makes the thread stand out.
Similarly, you can do a number of things to make the thread-related
details of your work better. Below are a few that you can try
individually or all together.
Contrasting stitch. Use a lighter color thread on a darker leather or
vice versa to really highlight your stitching work. It is also a way of
challenging yourself to improve your sewing because it will really
stand out.
Match color to lining or edging. If you match the exterior thread to
the interior of the bag, it can really make the colors “pop” when the
bag is opened. A good example of this technique is to use red thread on
the outside of a gray bag to highlight a red interior.
Minimize the hole size. If you’re using a drill or lace marker, mark
your stitches using a tool to make smaller holes like a pricking iron or
pricking wheel. Minimizing the hole structurally makes the stitches
stronger and gives it a nicer look.
Sew instead of riveting. Using rivets is a big time saver for
creating belts or straps, but sewing them can create a finer look.
Though it takes more time to sew a strap closed than it does to rivet
it, the results are worth it.
