Zdroje popisující nastavení co2 laser speed a power pro: kresba line, řez cut line, Gravírování Engraving Fill
Speed/power cheat sheet for "co2" lasers plywood poplar, birch, beech, plexi acrylic,
Laser Cutter Material Settings
https://wiki.comakingspace.de/Laser_Cutter_Material_Settings
Just found out my 80W can cut 1/2” plywood... 4mm/s at 55% power. How come you guys never told me lol, I’ve been cutting anything thicker than 1/4” on the scroll saw
Burnt edges when cutting
https://forum.lightburnsoftware.com/t/burnt-edges-when-cutting/39878/9
1/8 (3mm) plywood cut settings
https://forum.lightburnsoftware.com/t/1-8-3mm-plywood-cut-settings/69642
Laser shutting off and skipping areas of cut out
https://forum.lightburnsoftware.com/t/laser-shutting-off-and-skipping-areas-of-cut-out/113476
RDWorks Learning Lab 95 Cutting Parameters DIY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-buYn27MgU
Laser Cutter Focus - Measuring Focal Point and Depth of Cut
Slash Engraving Times by 73% in Lightburn !!! efektivní nastavení gravírování
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GH0xBYMLvPQ
Bearded Builds Co @BeardedBuildsCo
https://www.youtube.com/@BeardedBuildsCo/videos
Laser cutting & engraving parameter setting guides
https://mantechmachinery.co.uk/laser-cutter-parameters/
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referenční CO2 laser 100 W
nastavení pro překližku topol (poplar) 3 mm
kresba line Spd (speed) 60% Pwr (power) 8%
gravírování fill Spd (speed) 60% Pwr (power) 8%
řez cut line Spd (speed) 40% Pwr (power) 65%
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Speed/power cheat sheet for "co2" lasers plywood poplar, birch, beech, plexi acrylic,
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POPIS struktury textu níže.
Jedná se mimo jiné o několik Transkriptů videonávodů.
Na začátku je vždy prompt cca tohoto znění:
(Summarize the following content in 5-10-16 bullet points with timestamp if it's transcript. in Chezch.)
Transcript je oddělen od souhrnu několika znaky "--------"
Pod tím je souhrn který je na konci od dalšího návodu oddělen několika znaky "========"
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Summarize the following content in 5-10-16 bullet points with timestamp if it's transcript. in Chezch.
Název: "Dialing in your cut settings on your co2 laser"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0X4KRdouWw
Transkript: "(00:05) thanks for stopping by today today we're going to talk about how to determine a cut setting on a material that you've never done before I've got some 8 in Roark duramark sign plastic that I've got to make some pretty large signs with today and I have not used this 8in material I've uh engraved and cut a ton of their 16th material uh 16th inch material but I have not use this uh 8 in it also has the 3M backing pre-applied um that I'm going to need and I know that's going to add to our cut setting so what we're going to do today is I'm (00:42) going to show you my Approach on determining a new material cut setting I run into people all the time that are very apprehensive about trying new materials because they don't understand or they don't know what approach to take in order to determine their speed and their power to cut a new material out it's a lot simpler than you might think one of the things that I'm going to tell you is you should pick a power and stay with it don't change it and today what we're going to do is since I know what my cut settings are for my 16th inch of this (01:20) material and the power on that is 75% so that's what we're going to use I'm going to pick that power I'm going to leave it alone I'm not going to change it and then what we're going to do is I know that the settings that I have for my 16th inch is is not going to work with this 8th in but it gives me a place to start and so what we're going to do is we're going to cut a series of squares just in this little corner uh we're going to pick the 75% power we're going to look at what our speed is for our 16th inch and it's going to have to be (01:53) considerably slower because this is thicker material remember we got to slow down to get that energy to go through this material atal and before you know it we're going to have our uh settings for our new thickness of sign material once I determine that I'm going to add that to my materials Library so I've got it for in the future I've got several different colors of this I've got to uh engrave and cut out so I want to make sure that I remember it so just remember don't try to adjust your speed and your power when you're trying to determine a (02:28) new cut setting for a new material because you'll chase Your Tail it's not easy to do so pick a power in this case I've already got a setting uh for 16 inch it's 75% power we're going to keep that power the same and then we're going to just slow down the speed until we get a consistent Dropout and one additional thing that's added is I've got 3M Adhesive on the back of this that I'm not used to cutting I haven't cut this row Mark with the pre-applied uh adhesive so we we we've got to determine that and once we do then I can go (03:04) forward with my engrav settings those kind of things you're going to see once we get into lightburn it's really pretty straightforward on how quickly you can determine what your cut setting is going to be for this leave your power alone pick a power usually I pick between somewhere between 70 and 80% it really doesn't matter depending on what size machine you have uh and then just adjust your speed based on what you're seeing if it hasn't cut through you're going to slowly drop that speed until you get a consistent Dropout if uh if it drops out (03:40) and you're get maybe a little scorching around the edges you can increase your speed a little bit and we're going to dial in The Sweet Spot for this 8 in rowark duramark sign plastic let's go to light burn and we'll get started okay to get us started what we're going to do is we're just going to draw a 1 in or 3/4 in square I'm going to use or user origin out to Absolute coordinat let go to user origin going to be up in the upper left hand corner um I'm going to color it red because red is my cut setting so I can keep things consistent (04:16) I've gone over here to the material Library I've gone to my two color board I've gone to the the thickness that I normally cut which is much uh thinner than this I've assigned its cut setting which you can see is 60 mm/s at 75% power remember that I said before we're going to keep this power the same and I know that I'm going to have to drop this speed uh to cut through that material that is twice as thick and also has that 3M Adhesive on the back so what we're probably going to do is just as a guess and it's truly a guess I'm going to come (04:57) in here I'm going to go ahead and cut this speed by half so I'm going to start at 30 mm/s just because the material sign material is twice as thick and that should get me in the ballpark remember that with side material you don't want to use high air you want to keep it uh with uh low volume air and the reason why you want to do that if you use high volume air it will take that color and wipe it on the side and you'll get streaking and just discoloration it won't look clean so with side material typically you want your low volume air (05:33) on a thunder which means you're turning this off and we're going to say okay and so now our start setting to see if this is going to be enough to cut through our 8 in rowark duramark s plastic with the 3M Adhesive and this is the Ada style uh is going to be 75% power at 30 mm/ second and that's where we're going to start now the way I'm going to approach this is we'll start there and see what we get and then we'll modify our settings based on what we see okay we've got our first cut parameter loaded in our um controller (06:14) it's at uh 30 mm per second at 75% power and this may do it we'll just have to see um what I really wanted to cover today is just the approach on uh how you do this and so I've got this set up now uh just up in this upper corner and uh what we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and give this a try and see if she cuts [Music] out now you can see it dropped it out [Music] got some residue on it so I think I'm going to go ahead and increase the uh pressure just a little bit and also increase the power just a (07:16) little bit see if we can get rid of all all of this stuff okay so what I did is I just dropped the speed by two so I went from 30 mm/s to 208 8 and uh still the 75% power I increased my air pressure just ever so slightly so I went over here on this low volume side I push this button here that turns it on for 10 seconds and I I uh originally cut with virtually no uh just very little air and I'm going to turn that up to a couple of pounds [Music] um and we'll see what that does okay here we go at uh 28 mm/s 75% power (08:06) with a slight increase in air [Music] flow wow huge difference in uh what's going on here far as backlash you can see that I don't I don't have any um spray let's see if it drops out I'm going to move this down pull this out drops right out out nice clean Edge very little contamination on the surface I think that's going to be our our cut setting but you can see that going from just uh not enough air and what was happening here when you were getting all the black on the top of this sign plastic is it wasn't pushing all (08:59) the way through and a lot of that soot was coming back and ending up on the top here so I knew that my uh my powered even though it dropped out it wasn't fast enough and so I needed to increase my airf flow just slightly and um reduced my speed just slightly now in this particular case because it's got a black side it's going to engrave from yellow to Black you could probably use more air and get away with it but if this is like I've got some red and white sign material and if you have a white Edge if you use too (09:38) much air what it does is it wipes that uh red color down on the side of this white Edge and so here you could get away with a little bit more air but on that red and white sign material I'm not going to be able to do that so I'm going to have to I'm going to have to use my power and not my air to make sure that I don't have a bunch of contamination like this but you can see so what I would do if that didn't work I would continually drop my speed and I would just keep going across here until I got a nice clean cut uh that didn't have a lot of (10:13) contamination it didn't take us very long to to to figure this out but what I wanted to do is just basically show you the process and it's not hard to do keep your power the same adjust your speed and before long you'll have what you need to cut that new material [Music] out one other thing that I'd like to show you that a lot of people aren't aware of and I use this feature all the time so we just established our cut setting at 28 mm/s at 75% power and that's all well and good but I've got a little bit more information that I (10:49) wanted to make sure I save and so what I'm going to do is I'm going to come up here to the file show notes section and I've put a note in here three a 3 PSI airflow for yellow uh yellow to Black 8 in material and a my cut setting may be different for the red and white because I can't have the red color going into the white so I might have to increase my power and reduce my airflow uh to get the same job done but um this is a great place to put web links notes that you want to make sure you remember for this (11:29) particular comp job and so this is a great place to do it this stays with the file and you can even click right here and uh have it open up when you open this file so if there's certain things that you absolutely have to remember this is not a bad feature either I love this because I don't have to do uh put those notes on the desktop cluttering up my workspace so just if you haven't used the show notes feature it's a great feature in lightburn and uh use it you'll enjoy it well as you can see following that process it really doesn't take too much (12:04) time to determine what your cut setting is going to be on new material um keep one parameter the same I prefer to keep my power the same and adjust my speed but you may want to do the opposite the bottom line is that I wanted to show you the steps that you go through to establish new cutting criteria for materials that you might not be used to don't be afraid to try this out because once you understand that process um you'll be able to try a lot more new things and wide broaden your horizons on the materials that you can make I hope (12:39) this information was helpful if you do me a favor and hit that like button I'd really appreciate if you haven't subscribe please do so and if you have the ability hit that thanks button contribute to the channel it's those contributions that are making this content possible everybody have a great day"
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Shrnutí: "Dialing in your cut settings on your CO2 laser"
Základní přístup:
Cílem je určit nastavení pro řezání nového materiálu, který dosud nebyl použit.
Materiál: 8" plast Rowmark s předem nanesenou 3M lepivou vrstvou.
Obecná doporučení:
Udržujte konstantní výkon (doporučeno 70–80 %) a upravujte pouze rychlost.
Začněte s existujícími nastaveními pro podobný materiál (v tomto případě 16" plast).
Postup kalibrace:
Vyřízněte sérii čtverců s výchozím výkonem 75 % a přizpůsobujte rychlost.
Snižujte rychlost, dokud nebude dosaženo čistého řezu bez znečištění.
Další faktory:
Lepivá vrstva 3M ovlivňuje řezací parametry – vyžaduje snížení rychlosti.
Nízký objem vzduchu je doporučený pro čisté řezy, aby se zabránilo znečištění.
Praktické nastavení:
Výchozí rychlost pro testování: 30 mm/s při 75 % výkonu.
Další optimalizace: zmenšení rychlosti na 28 mm/s a lehké zvýšení tlaku vzduchu.
Výsledky:
Snížení rychlosti a zvýšení průtoku vzduchu vedlo k čistému řezu s minimálním znečištěním.
Další nastavení se mohou lišit podle barev materiálu (např. červený a bílý plast).
Využití nástroje LightBurn:
Využití „Show Notes“ pro ukládání parametrů a poznámek ke specifickým projektům.
Možnost přidání odkazů a poznámek přímo k projektu, což usnadňuje opakované použití.
Důraz na proces:
Proces není složitý: udržujte výkon konstantní, přizpůsobujte rychlost a testujte.
Experimentování s novými materiály rozšiřuje možnosti a kreativitu.
Tip na závěr:
Použitím správného přístupu lze rychle najít optimální parametry pro nové materiály.
Důležitost poznámek a dokumentace pro budoucí projekty.
Výzva k podpoře:
Autoři videa žádají o lajky, odběry a podporu na kanále pro další obsah.
Tento přístup pomáhá efektivně nastavovat řezací parametry, minimalizovat chyby a zlepšovat výsledky.
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Summarize the following content in 5-16 bullet points with timestamp if it's transcript. in Chezch.
Název:
Tutorial: Speed and Power (What to Adjust and When) - YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Z13OWX219A
Transcript:
(00:00) hey what's up everybody this is mark and it's tips and tutorials tuesday today i'm going to teach about something i get asked about all the time and that's what speed and power adjustments you make when you need to cut deeper or when you need to cut more shallowly shallowly more shallowly when you need to cut not as deep what do you change or if you're engraving and you want it to go deeper or or more shallowly what do you change that kind of thing so i want to walk through those few steps and i'm going to be giving you
(00:33) an example here with the glowforge but this all the principles are exactly the same no matter what laser you're using all right so i've got this file loaded and we're just going to use this as a visual reference i've got our new christmas roads door hanger loaded here which you guys will be seeing maybe today or tomorrow and over here on the left i've got all the pieces right here so i just want to talk about these for a moment let's first start with the snowman let's say that you want the eyes and the mouth and
(01:02) the buttons to engrave deeper what you're going to do is you're going to increase the power or reduce the speed increase the power reduce the speed that makes it go deeper alright so let me just use this as an example i'm going to go up here to uh those pieces that we're going to engrave and i'm going to click on the arrow right here and if i want them to be deeper than they were before i want to either lower my speed or increase my power or sometimes you can do both all right because the longer that the laser spends
(01:39) in any one particular area it goes deeper so if it's going really fast it's not going to go very deep but if it's going slow it's going to go deeper because it's going to be moving at a slower pace and hitting an area more often or for a longer period of time right now also if you increase the power that also makes it go deeper so let's say that you leave the speed the same way it is but you lower the i'm sorry raise the power that will also go deeper so again here if i go to full power for example and i slow the speed down that's going to make
(02:13) it go much much deeper on the flip side if you want it to be very shallow you can increase the speed and you can that right there will cause it to be more shallow or you can increase the speed and decrease the power and that will be even more shallow now a lot of times people ask about the color of the engrave now typically the the darkness of the engraving is measured again by those same things the slower that the laser moves the higher that the power is the darker it's going to be because it's burning and it's
(02:46) spending more time in one particular area okay so if you want it darker you're going to have to slow down the speed increase the power but remember that also makes it go deeper so just think about that let's talk about cutting the exact same thing i'm just going to tell you over and over again so it really feels good in your head there let's say we're going to go to this cut piece i'll zoom out a little bit you can see which one i'm talking about we're going to talk about this road right here that goes around the outside
(03:15) okay if you want that to cut deeper because it wasn't cutting through your material to go deeper you're going to go slower and or you're going to raise the power now in my case since i'm already at full power if it's not cutting through i need to slow the speed down all right on the other hand we want here's another thing we want it to cut through but only enough to cut through like we don't want it to really just burn the crap out of the edges right so if it's cutting through at say 152 it's cutting through just fine we
(03:50) can play around and maybe go to 162 and experiment and see if that works and as long as it cuts through it'll be a little more of a light brown burn rather than really dark so again if you need to cut through more you raise the power lower the speed if you want to cut through less you raise the speed lower the power all right so i hopefully that has gotten home in your brain there it's really simple but again if you want it deeper you lower the speed increase the power if you want it more shallow you lower the power and increase the speed i
(04:32) hope that helps ask me some questions in the comments here but this works no matter what laser you have it's just that simple principle and once you've got it you got it so let me know how it can help and ask some questions in the comments and we'll talk about it till you got it down perfectly
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Shrnutí: Tutorial: Speed and Power (What to Adjust and When)
Základní pravidla:
Pro hlubší řez nebo gravírování: zvyšte výkon nebo snižte rychlost.
Pro mělký řez nebo gravírování: zvyšte rychlost nebo snižte výkon.
Důvod změn:
Pomalejší pohyb laseru umožňuje delší působení na jedno místo, což vede k hlubšímu řezu.
Vyšší výkon zvyšuje intenzitu laseru, což také zlepšuje hloubku řezu.
Tmavost gravírování:
Pomalejší rychlost a vyšší výkon způsobují tmavší gravírování, protože laser déle spaluje materiál.
Řezání materiálu:
Pokud laser neprořízne materiál, je nutné zpomalit rychlost nebo zvýšit výkon.
Pro méně vypálené okraje nastavte rychlost na vyšší hodnotu a výkon na nižší, pokud materiál stále projde.
Příklad:
U řezání silnějších materiálů, pokud je výkon na maximu, zpomalte rychlost.
Při dosažení správného průřezu lze experimentovat se zvýšením rychlosti, aby okraje nebyly příliš vypálené.
Jednoduchý princip:
Hlubší: nižší rychlost + vyšší výkon.
Mělčí: vyšší rychlost + nižší výkon.
Platnost pro všechny lasery:
Tato pravidla platí univerzálně, bez ohledu na typ laseru.
Výzva k zapojení:
Sledujte výsledky, experimentujte s nastavením a zanechte dotazy v komentářích pro další tipy.
Tento návod shrnuje klíčové principy nastavení rychlosti a výkonu pro efektivní řezání a gravírování s lasery.
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Summarize the following content in 5-16 bullet points with timestamp if it's transcript. in Chezch.
Název:
Creating a Material Test Card using LightBurn - Project Walkthrough - OMTech - YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQ-5doCWD78
Transcript:
(00:02) [Music] welcome everybody to this video my name is max from laserbeastslab and today we're going to go over doing a material test card this is a free file provided by omtech so if you haven't downloaded this yet go down to the description below and click the link to download this card so you might be wondering what is a material card and why is it important so we'll jump right into that the material test card is important to do because every machine is a little bit different there's a lot of variables that go into doing engravings and
(00:39) cuttings so it's important to do this test card for each material that you have so you get an idea of what those optimal settings are the card will show you the best settings for speed and power that'll cut through the material that you chose there's also the image engraving test down below and you could select a different mode and light burn to test out what each percentage of a grayscale bar will look like and lastly there is a selection of text on the right hand side that is set to outline mode and basically gives you
(01:07) different sized text so you can see where you can actually do an outline or where you should be doing engraving instead all right so now that we know and understand why a test card is important let's go ahead let's load up some material i chose baltic birch for this example so the first thing you want to do when loading your material is set your focal distance now you may have your focal distance tool provided by omtec go ahead and use that to set your distance and make adjustments on your machine mine is a manual focus machine so i'm
(01:36) just going to set that and then we're good to go so once your material is set let's go ahead and open that file that you downloaded up we're going to open that into light burn and immediately you'll see there are a ton of different layers and they have different settings first thing we want to do is label what material we're going to use what we loaded up in our machine just now uh just as a quick overview right here you'll see the speed up top uh so you'll see 10 millimeters a second power on the side at 40 and that circle that's there
(02:04) in that corner should indicate the 10 millimeters a second at 40 power just like the one on the other corner is 30 millimeters a second at 20 percent power so down below your cut settings is your image engraving test now this is an image and it's a grayscale bar from zero to a hundred percent and this will give you kind of an idea of what your grayscale will look like so when you open up light burn and select your image properties uh basically you could select a mode that you want to test out i have it on grayscale but i'm going to switch
(02:33) it to dither because i want to see what dither looks like on that zero to 100 scale so with that image engraving test now we can change our settings to see what's optimal for us i'm going to go ahead and do 150 millimeters a second with 20 power at 300 dpi and once i have those settings in place i'm going to go ahead and just type out with the font selection tool all those settings so that way all my material card i'll have them all in place so i can save for later now you can just physically write this on your material
(03:05) if you want to afterwards i just think it's a lot cleaner to engrave it while we're already doing the test card um also one thing to note too is since we're doing this test card it's a great way you could save this for later and have a library of all the different materials that you plan on keeping in your inventory so just having it engraved right off the bat is probably a smarter thing to do the third thing we have to test on this test card is the font size this is set to outline mode it's not filled so this will also indicate how fast your
(03:35) outline mode can go at what size and it's just a fun little thing that's added to this test card uh that's good to know later on in the future so if for some reason you open this svg file up and these profiles aren't set what you can do is go down to each layer there'll be the circles right there and you could just change it according to what those bars say so that top corner over there you're looking at 10 millimeters a second at 40 power just go through one by one and make those changes yourself so that way you
(04:04) have an accurate test card so once you have all that dialed in and you have everything labeled with the settings that you chose let's go ahead and put it on our material so i'm going to use my camera it just makes things easier for me it's a great addition to my machine if you don't have a camera you could always use this little frame button in light burn and what that frame button will do is it'll actually show you a guide of where it's going to be placed on your work bin so once you hit that frame button you'll see that it'll just
(04:33) outline the area of where it's going to engrave [Music] whether you use the camera or the frame function once you're confident it's going to be on the material and it's well placed next we can go ahead and click that start button and start watching that magic happen so one of the first parts of the test card that i started working on first was the image uh it just got started right now but you can already tell that with that dither setting you can start to see from zero to a hundred percent the different levels of that gradient which is
(05:10) uh so far an awesome profile that we picked out so if you're at this part of the project where i am too and you're just watching the magic happen inside your machine and you have the time go ahead and give us a like on this video if you appreciate it so far that would be very encouraging for us to make more videos in the future and if you're interested in seeing those videos in the future please click subscribe to our youtube channel on techlazer and we'll be sure to keep those videos coming well now it's time to unveil the
(05:40) material test card just to note there is a knot in my wood right there so i'm gonna just make a mental note of that so it doesn't reflect my engraved settings and i don't change anything according to that as i pull it up you'll see there are some circles that drop out of place those are the best settings that i have on this machine so far but looking through the light i can see that there is some circles that are cut out just haven't popped out yet so i'm going to give assistance right here and i'm just going to use my thumb to pop out those
(06:06) anything that comes out easy i'm gonna count as good settings but the ones that are more difficult i'm gonna count those as bad settings so i'm not gonna go ahead and use those holes and i want them to stay in place so next time in the future i'll know not to use them so let's go ahead and read the card uh you'll see that obviously all the circles that are cut out are good settings i can use to cut through this material something like this middle ground 15 millimeters a second at 30 power is what i plan on using in the
(06:34) future it's a good combination of speed and power that'll help preserve my tube life so i can do 20 power but then i'll knock my millimeters a second down to 10 and that might be a little too slow for me the image engraving test here is a great example of what the machine can do you'll see every single step of the way it gets from light to dark so dither worked out great for us and the settings i chose were on point now the font selection you can see at the top the smaller font doesn't work for the outline i might do engrave next time
(07:06) but i now know not to use that smaller font i'll go ahead and show you the backside one more time these weren't optimal cut settings they were almost there maybe two and a half percent would have been good a little bit more but at the five percent drop of power for the speed settings it just didn't quite punch through so if you want to do a more in-depth test uh something that has a smaller gap between power ranges and speed lightburn has a function built in to do a material test so you can go up to laser tools up the top
(07:38) uh select your material test and you'll see a dialog box that opens up that you can actually run these tests with so here i have it set to power and speed just like our actual omtec card is i'm going to change that from 10 squares to 5 squares i don't feel like i need that many but if you do want to go in depth you can leave it at 10.
(07:57) then you can set your power and you can set your speed and you can change the variables so you can understand your machine and see how that affects each material you decide to load up so the fact that lightburn has this built into their software kind of goes to show how important it is to kind of run these tests on your materials and see how all of these variables change the output of your machine and how it affects the engraving and cutting so play around with these functions a little bit and try a couple different
(08:26) numbers here and there and see how it affects the output of your machine to the material that you chose so that wraps up our video today on the material test card if you found this video useful please make sure to give us a like and also subscribe to see more videos like this come out in the future i hope this helps you understand why a material card is important and why it might be useful to have on hand in the future so that way next time you load your material up you have a better idea of what the effects are going to be with
(08:53) the settings that you chose again if you liked the video give us a like and also a subscribe and if you have any questions let us know down below in the comments thanks so much you
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Shrnutí: Vytvoření testovací karty materiálů pomocí LightBurn
Účel testovací karty materiálů:
Testovací karta pomáhá určit optimální nastavení rychlosti a výkonu pro gravírování a řezání různých materiálů.
Každý laser a materiál má specifické vlastnosti, které ovlivňují výsledky.
Obsah testovací karty:
Řezací test: Různé kombinace rychlosti a výkonu pro identifikaci správných nastavení.
Gravírovací test: Šedotónová stupnice (0–100 %) pro testování obrazových režimů (např. dither).
Test velikosti písma: Ukazuje, která velikost písma je vhodná pro obrysové nebo plné gravírování.
Praktický postup:
Nastavte ohniskovou vzdálenost pomocí nástroje poskytnutého OMTech.
Otevřete soubor testovací karty v LightBurn, označte použitý materiál a nastavte parametry podle vrstev.
Ukázkové nastavení:
Příklad nastavení: 10 mm/s při 40 % výkonu a 30 mm/s při 20 % výkonu.
Pro gravírování: 150 mm/s, 20 % výkonu, 300 DPI, režim „dither“.
Výsledky testu:
Řezy s dobře oddělenými kruhy označují optimální nastavení.
Gravírování šedotónové stupnice ukazuje přechody od světlých po tmavé odstíny.
Důležité poznámky:
Výsledky gravírování mohou být ovlivněny vadami materiálu (např. suky).
Pokud se některé kruhy neoddělí snadno, označte je jako nevyhovující.
Tipy pro efektivitu:
Testovací kartu můžete gravírovat přímo na materiál pro budoucí použití.
LightBurn má vestavěnou funkci „Material Test“ pro podrobnější testování.
Použití funkce Material Test v LightBurn:
Nastavte počet čtverců, rychlost a výkon pro detailní testy.
Experimentujte s různými nastaveními pro lepší pochopení vlivu na výsledek.
Doporučení:
Udržujte knihovnu testovacích karet pro různé materiály.
Přesné testování prodlouží životnost laserové trubice a zlepší kvalitu výstupu.
Výzva k podpoře:
Sledujte další videa a zanechte otázky nebo komentáře pro další tipy a návody.
Tato testovací karta je užitečný nástroj pro optimalizaci nastavení laseru a dosažení nejlepších výsledků pro různé materiály.
==============================================
Zdroje popisující nastavení co2 laser speed a power pro: kresba line, řez cut line, Gravírování Engraving Fill
Laser Cutter Material Settings
https://wiki.comakingspace.de/Laser_Cutter_Material_Settings
Just found out my 80W can cut 1/2” plywood... 4mm/s at 55% power. How come you guys never told me lol, I’ve been cutting anything thicker than 1/4” on the scroll saw
Burnt edges when cutting
https://forum.lightburnsoftware.com/t/burnt-edges-when-cutting/39878/9
1/8 (3mm) plywood cut settings
https://forum.lightburnsoftware.com/t/1-8-3mm-plywood-cut-settings/69642
Laser shutting off and skipping areas of cut out
https://forum.lightburnsoftware.com/t/laser-shutting-off-and-skipping-areas-of-cut-out/113476
RDWorks Learning Lab 95 Cutting Parameters DIY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-buYn27MgU
Laser cutting & engraving parameter setting guides
https://mantechmachinery.co.uk/laser-cutter-parameters/
=================================================
referenční CO2 laser 100 W
nastavení pro překližku topol (poplar) 3 mm
kresba line Spd (speed) 60% Pwr (power) 8%
gravírování fill Spd (speed) 60% Pwr (power) 8%
řez cut line Spd (speed) 40% Pwr (power) 65%
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Speed/power cheat sheet for "co2" lasers plywood poplar, birch, beech, plexi acrylic,
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POPIS struktury textu níže.
Jedná se mimo jiné o několik Transkriptů videonávodů.
Na začátku je vždy prompt cca tohoto znění:
(Summarize the following content in 5-10-16 bullet points with timestamp if it's transcript. in Chezch.)
Transcript je oddělen od souhrnu několika znaky "--------"
Pod tím je souhrn který je na konci od dalšího návodu oddělen několika znaky "========"
=================================================
Summarize the following content in 5-10-16 bullet points with timestamp if it's transcript. in Chezch.
Název: "Dialing in your cut settings on your co2 laser"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0X4KRdouWw
Transkript: "(00:05) thanks for stopping by today today we're going to talk about how to determine a cut setting on a material that you've never done before I've got some 8 in Roark duramark sign plastic that I've got to make some pretty large signs with today and I have not used this 8in material I've uh engraved and cut a ton of their 16th material uh 16th inch material but I have not use this uh 8 in it also has the 3M backing pre-applied um that I'm going to need and I know that's going to add to our cut setting so what we're going to do today is I'm (00:42) going to show you my Approach on determining a new material cut setting I run into people all the time that are very apprehensive about trying new materials because they don't understand or they don't know what approach to take in order to determine their speed and their power to cut a new material out it's a lot simpler than you might think one of the things that I'm going to tell you is you should pick a power and stay with it don't change it and today what we're going to do is since I know what my cut settings are for my 16th inch of this (01:20) material and the power on that is 75% so that's what we're going to use I'm going to pick that power I'm going to leave it alone I'm not going to change it and then what we're going to do is I know that the settings that I have for my 16th inch is is not going to work with this 8th in but it gives me a place to start and so what we're going to do is we're going to cut a series of squares just in this little corner uh we're going to pick the 75% power we're going to look at what our speed is for our 16th inch and it's going to have to be (01:53) considerably slower because this is thicker material remember we got to slow down to get that energy to go through this material atal and before you know it we're going to have our uh settings for our new thickness of sign material once I determine that I'm going to add that to my materials Library so I've got it for in the future I've got several different colors of this I've got to uh engrave and cut out so I want to make sure that I remember it so just remember don't try to adjust your speed and your power when you're trying to determine a (02:28) new cut setting for a new material because you'll chase Your Tail it's not easy to do so pick a power in this case I've already got a setting uh for 16 inch it's 75% power we're going to keep that power the same and then we're going to just slow down the speed until we get a consistent Dropout and one additional thing that's added is I've got 3M Adhesive on the back of this that I'm not used to cutting I haven't cut this row Mark with the pre-applied uh adhesive so we we we've got to determine that and once we do then I can go (03:04) forward with my engrav settings those kind of things you're going to see once we get into lightburn it's really pretty straightforward on how quickly you can determine what your cut setting is going to be for this leave your power alone pick a power usually I pick between somewhere between 70 and 80% it really doesn't matter depending on what size machine you have uh and then just adjust your speed based on what you're seeing if it hasn't cut through you're going to slowly drop that speed until you get a consistent Dropout if uh if it drops out (03:40) and you're get maybe a little scorching around the edges you can increase your speed a little bit and we're going to dial in The Sweet Spot for this 8 in rowark duramark sign plastic let's go to light burn and we'll get started okay to get us started what we're going to do is we're just going to draw a 1 in or 3/4 in square I'm going to use or user origin out to Absolute coordinat let go to user origin going to be up in the upper left hand corner um I'm going to color it red because red is my cut setting so I can keep things consistent (04:16) I've gone over here to the material Library I've gone to my two color board I've gone to the the thickness that I normally cut which is much uh thinner than this I've assigned its cut setting which you can see is 60 mm/s at 75% power remember that I said before we're going to keep this power the same and I know that I'm going to have to drop this speed uh to cut through that material that is twice as thick and also has that 3M Adhesive on the back so what we're probably going to do is just as a guess and it's truly a guess I'm going to come (04:57) in here I'm going to go ahead and cut this speed by half so I'm going to start at 30 mm/s just because the material sign material is twice as thick and that should get me in the ballpark remember that with side material you don't want to use high air you want to keep it uh with uh low volume air and the reason why you want to do that if you use high volume air it will take that color and wipe it on the side and you'll get streaking and just discoloration it won't look clean so with side material typically you want your low volume air (05:33) on a thunder which means you're turning this off and we're going to say okay and so now our start setting to see if this is going to be enough to cut through our 8 in rowark duramark s plastic with the 3M Adhesive and this is the Ada style uh is going to be 75% power at 30 mm/ second and that's where we're going to start now the way I'm going to approach this is we'll start there and see what we get and then we'll modify our settings based on what we see okay we've got our first cut parameter loaded in our um controller (06:14) it's at uh 30 mm per second at 75% power and this may do it we'll just have to see um what I really wanted to cover today is just the approach on uh how you do this and so I've got this set up now uh just up in this upper corner and uh what we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and give this a try and see if she cuts [Music] out now you can see it dropped it out [Music] got some residue on it so I think I'm going to go ahead and increase the uh pressure just a little bit and also increase the power just a (07:16) little bit see if we can get rid of all all of this stuff okay so what I did is I just dropped the speed by two so I went from 30 mm/s to 208 8 and uh still the 75% power I increased my air pressure just ever so slightly so I went over here on this low volume side I push this button here that turns it on for 10 seconds and I I uh originally cut with virtually no uh just very little air and I'm going to turn that up to a couple of pounds [Music] um and we'll see what that does okay here we go at uh 28 mm/s 75% power (08:06) with a slight increase in air [Music] flow wow huge difference in uh what's going on here far as backlash you can see that I don't I don't have any um spray let's see if it drops out I'm going to move this down pull this out drops right out out nice clean Edge very little contamination on the surface I think that's going to be our our cut setting but you can see that going from just uh not enough air and what was happening here when you were getting all the black on the top of this sign plastic is it wasn't pushing all (08:59) the way through and a lot of that soot was coming back and ending up on the top here so I knew that my uh my powered even though it dropped out it wasn't fast enough and so I needed to increase my airf flow just slightly and um reduced my speed just slightly now in this particular case because it's got a black side it's going to engrave from yellow to Black you could probably use more air and get away with it but if this is like I've got some red and white sign material and if you have a white Edge if you use too (09:38) much air what it does is it wipes that uh red color down on the side of this white Edge and so here you could get away with a little bit more air but on that red and white sign material I'm not going to be able to do that so I'm going to have to I'm going to have to use my power and not my air to make sure that I don't have a bunch of contamination like this but you can see so what I would do if that didn't work I would continually drop my speed and I would just keep going across here until I got a nice clean cut uh that didn't have a lot of (10:13) contamination it didn't take us very long to to to figure this out but what I wanted to do is just basically show you the process and it's not hard to do keep your power the same adjust your speed and before long you'll have what you need to cut that new material [Music] out one other thing that I'd like to show you that a lot of people aren't aware of and I use this feature all the time so we just established our cut setting at 28 mm/s at 75% power and that's all well and good but I've got a little bit more information that I (10:49) wanted to make sure I save and so what I'm going to do is I'm going to come up here to the file show notes section and I've put a note in here three a 3 PSI airflow for yellow uh yellow to Black 8 in material and a my cut setting may be different for the red and white because I can't have the red color going into the white so I might have to increase my power and reduce my airflow uh to get the same job done but um this is a great place to put web links notes that you want to make sure you remember for this (11:29) particular comp job and so this is a great place to do it this stays with the file and you can even click right here and uh have it open up when you open this file so if there's certain things that you absolutely have to remember this is not a bad feature either I love this because I don't have to do uh put those notes on the desktop cluttering up my workspace so just if you haven't used the show notes feature it's a great feature in lightburn and uh use it you'll enjoy it well as you can see following that process it really doesn't take too much (12:04) time to determine what your cut setting is going to be on new material um keep one parameter the same I prefer to keep my power the same and adjust my speed but you may want to do the opposite the bottom line is that I wanted to show you the steps that you go through to establish new cutting criteria for materials that you might not be used to don't be afraid to try this out because once you understand that process um you'll be able to try a lot more new things and wide broaden your horizons on the materials that you can make I hope (12:39) this information was helpful if you do me a favor and hit that like button I'd really appreciate if you haven't subscribe please do so and if you have the ability hit that thanks button contribute to the channel it's those contributions that are making this content possible everybody have a great day"
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Shrnutí: "Dialing in your cut settings on your CO2 laser"
Základní přístup:
Cílem je určit nastavení pro řezání nového materiálu, který dosud nebyl použit.
Materiál: 8" plast Rowmark s předem nanesenou 3M lepivou vrstvou.
Obecná doporučení:
Udržujte konstantní výkon (doporučeno 70–80 %) a upravujte pouze rychlost.
Začněte s existujícími nastaveními pro podobný materiál (v tomto případě 16" plast).
Postup kalibrace:
Vyřízněte sérii čtverců s výchozím výkonem 75 % a přizpůsobujte rychlost.
Snižujte rychlost, dokud nebude dosaženo čistého řezu bez znečištění.
Další faktory:
Lepivá vrstva 3M ovlivňuje řezací parametry – vyžaduje snížení rychlosti.
Nízký objem vzduchu je doporučený pro čisté řezy, aby se zabránilo znečištění.
Praktické nastavení:
Výchozí rychlost pro testování: 30 mm/s při 75 % výkonu.
Další optimalizace: zmenšení rychlosti na 28 mm/s a lehké zvýšení tlaku vzduchu.
Výsledky:
Snížení rychlosti a zvýšení průtoku vzduchu vedlo k čistému řezu s minimálním znečištěním.
Další nastavení se mohou lišit podle barev materiálu (např. červený a bílý plast).
Využití nástroje LightBurn:
Využití „Show Notes“ pro ukládání parametrů a poznámek ke specifickým projektům.
Možnost přidání odkazů a poznámek přímo k projektu, což usnadňuje opakované použití.
Důraz na proces:
Proces není složitý: udržujte výkon konstantní, přizpůsobujte rychlost a testujte.
Experimentování s novými materiály rozšiřuje možnosti a kreativitu.
Tip na závěr:
Použitím správného přístupu lze rychle najít optimální parametry pro nové materiály.
Důležitost poznámek a dokumentace pro budoucí projekty.
Výzva k podpoře:
Autoři videa žádají o lajky, odběry a podporu na kanále pro další obsah.
Tento přístup pomáhá efektivně nastavovat řezací parametry, minimalizovat chyby a zlepšovat výsledky.
==========================================================
Summarize the following content in 5-16 bullet points with timestamp if it's transcript. in Chezch.
Název:
Tutorial: Speed and Power (What to Adjust and When) - YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Z13OWX219A
Transcript:
(00:00) hey what's up everybody this is mark and it's tips and tutorials tuesday today i'm going to teach about something i get asked about all the time and that's what speed and power adjustments you make when you need to cut deeper or when you need to cut more shallowly shallowly more shallowly when you need to cut not as deep what do you change or if you're engraving and you want it to go deeper or or more shallowly what do you change that kind of thing so i want to walk through those few steps and i'm going to be giving you
(00:33) an example here with the glowforge but this all the principles are exactly the same no matter what laser you're using all right so i've got this file loaded and we're just going to use this as a visual reference i've got our new christmas roads door hanger loaded here which you guys will be seeing maybe today or tomorrow and over here on the left i've got all the pieces right here so i just want to talk about these for a moment let's first start with the snowman let's say that you want the eyes and the mouth and
(01:02) the buttons to engrave deeper what you're going to do is you're going to increase the power or reduce the speed increase the power reduce the speed that makes it go deeper alright so let me just use this as an example i'm going to go up here to uh those pieces that we're going to engrave and i'm going to click on the arrow right here and if i want them to be deeper than they were before i want to either lower my speed or increase my power or sometimes you can do both all right because the longer that the laser spends
(01:39) in any one particular area it goes deeper so if it's going really fast it's not going to go very deep but if it's going slow it's going to go deeper because it's going to be moving at a slower pace and hitting an area more often or for a longer period of time right now also if you increase the power that also makes it go deeper so let's say that you leave the speed the same way it is but you lower the i'm sorry raise the power that will also go deeper so again here if i go to full power for example and i slow the speed down that's going to make
(02:13) it go much much deeper on the flip side if you want it to be very shallow you can increase the speed and you can that right there will cause it to be more shallow or you can increase the speed and decrease the power and that will be even more shallow now a lot of times people ask about the color of the engrave now typically the the darkness of the engraving is measured again by those same things the slower that the laser moves the higher that the power is the darker it's going to be because it's burning and it's
(02:46) spending more time in one particular area okay so if you want it darker you're going to have to slow down the speed increase the power but remember that also makes it go deeper so just think about that let's talk about cutting the exact same thing i'm just going to tell you over and over again so it really feels good in your head there let's say we're going to go to this cut piece i'll zoom out a little bit you can see which one i'm talking about we're going to talk about this road right here that goes around the outside
(03:15) okay if you want that to cut deeper because it wasn't cutting through your material to go deeper you're going to go slower and or you're going to raise the power now in my case since i'm already at full power if it's not cutting through i need to slow the speed down all right on the other hand we want here's another thing we want it to cut through but only enough to cut through like we don't want it to really just burn the crap out of the edges right so if it's cutting through at say 152 it's cutting through just fine we
(03:50) can play around and maybe go to 162 and experiment and see if that works and as long as it cuts through it'll be a little more of a light brown burn rather than really dark so again if you need to cut through more you raise the power lower the speed if you want to cut through less you raise the speed lower the power all right so i hopefully that has gotten home in your brain there it's really simple but again if you want it deeper you lower the speed increase the power if you want it more shallow you lower the power and increase the speed i
(04:32) hope that helps ask me some questions in the comments here but this works no matter what laser you have it's just that simple principle and once you've got it you got it so let me know how it can help and ask some questions in the comments and we'll talk about it till you got it down perfectly
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Shrnutí: Tutorial: Speed and Power (What to Adjust and When)
Základní pravidla:
Pro hlubší řez nebo gravírování: zvyšte výkon nebo snižte rychlost.
Pro mělký řez nebo gravírování: zvyšte rychlost nebo snižte výkon.
Důvod změn:
Pomalejší pohyb laseru umožňuje delší působení na jedno místo, což vede k hlubšímu řezu.
Vyšší výkon zvyšuje intenzitu laseru, což také zlepšuje hloubku řezu.
Tmavost gravírování:
Pomalejší rychlost a vyšší výkon způsobují tmavší gravírování, protože laser déle spaluje materiál.
Řezání materiálu:
Pokud laser neprořízne materiál, je nutné zpomalit rychlost nebo zvýšit výkon.
Pro méně vypálené okraje nastavte rychlost na vyšší hodnotu a výkon na nižší, pokud materiál stále projde.
Příklad:
U řezání silnějších materiálů, pokud je výkon na maximu, zpomalte rychlost.
Při dosažení správného průřezu lze experimentovat se zvýšením rychlosti, aby okraje nebyly příliš vypálené.
Jednoduchý princip:
Hlubší: nižší rychlost + vyšší výkon.
Mělčí: vyšší rychlost + nižší výkon.
Platnost pro všechny lasery:
Tato pravidla platí univerzálně, bez ohledu na typ laseru.
Výzva k zapojení:
Sledujte výsledky, experimentujte s nastavením a zanechte dotazy v komentářích pro další tipy.
Tento návod shrnuje klíčové principy nastavení rychlosti a výkonu pro efektivní řezání a gravírování s lasery.
================================================
Summarize the following content in 5-16 bullet points with timestamp if it's transcript. in Chezch.
Název:
Creating a Material Test Card using LightBurn - Project Walkthrough - OMTech - YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQ-5doCWD78
Transcript:
(00:02) [Music] welcome everybody to this video my name is max from laserbeastslab and today we're going to go over doing a material test card this is a free file provided by omtech so if you haven't downloaded this yet go down to the description below and click the link to download this card so you might be wondering what is a material card and why is it important so we'll jump right into that the material test card is important to do because every machine is a little bit different there's a lot of variables that go into doing engravings and
(00:39) cuttings so it's important to do this test card for each material that you have so you get an idea of what those optimal settings are the card will show you the best settings for speed and power that'll cut through the material that you chose there's also the image engraving test down below and you could select a different mode and light burn to test out what each percentage of a grayscale bar will look like and lastly there is a selection of text on the right hand side that is set to outline mode and basically gives you
(01:07) different sized text so you can see where you can actually do an outline or where you should be doing engraving instead all right so now that we know and understand why a test card is important let's go ahead let's load up some material i chose baltic birch for this example so the first thing you want to do when loading your material is set your focal distance now you may have your focal distance tool provided by omtec go ahead and use that to set your distance and make adjustments on your machine mine is a manual focus machine so i'm
(01:36) just going to set that and then we're good to go so once your material is set let's go ahead and open that file that you downloaded up we're going to open that into light burn and immediately you'll see there are a ton of different layers and they have different settings first thing we want to do is label what material we're going to use what we loaded up in our machine just now uh just as a quick overview right here you'll see the speed up top uh so you'll see 10 millimeters a second power on the side at 40 and that circle that's there
(02:04) in that corner should indicate the 10 millimeters a second at 40 power just like the one on the other corner is 30 millimeters a second at 20 percent power so down below your cut settings is your image engraving test now this is an image and it's a grayscale bar from zero to a hundred percent and this will give you kind of an idea of what your grayscale will look like so when you open up light burn and select your image properties uh basically you could select a mode that you want to test out i have it on grayscale but i'm going to switch
(02:33) it to dither because i want to see what dither looks like on that zero to 100 scale so with that image engraving test now we can change our settings to see what's optimal for us i'm going to go ahead and do 150 millimeters a second with 20 power at 300 dpi and once i have those settings in place i'm going to go ahead and just type out with the font selection tool all those settings so that way all my material card i'll have them all in place so i can save for later now you can just physically write this on your material
(03:05) if you want to afterwards i just think it's a lot cleaner to engrave it while we're already doing the test card um also one thing to note too is since we're doing this test card it's a great way you could save this for later and have a library of all the different materials that you plan on keeping in your inventory so just having it engraved right off the bat is probably a smarter thing to do the third thing we have to test on this test card is the font size this is set to outline mode it's not filled so this will also indicate how fast your
(03:35) outline mode can go at what size and it's just a fun little thing that's added to this test card uh that's good to know later on in the future so if for some reason you open this svg file up and these profiles aren't set what you can do is go down to each layer there'll be the circles right there and you could just change it according to what those bars say so that top corner over there you're looking at 10 millimeters a second at 40 power just go through one by one and make those changes yourself so that way you
(04:04) have an accurate test card so once you have all that dialed in and you have everything labeled with the settings that you chose let's go ahead and put it on our material so i'm going to use my camera it just makes things easier for me it's a great addition to my machine if you don't have a camera you could always use this little frame button in light burn and what that frame button will do is it'll actually show you a guide of where it's going to be placed on your work bin so once you hit that frame button you'll see that it'll just
(04:33) outline the area of where it's going to engrave [Music] whether you use the camera or the frame function once you're confident it's going to be on the material and it's well placed next we can go ahead and click that start button and start watching that magic happen so one of the first parts of the test card that i started working on first was the image uh it just got started right now but you can already tell that with that dither setting you can start to see from zero to a hundred percent the different levels of that gradient which is
(05:10) uh so far an awesome profile that we picked out so if you're at this part of the project where i am too and you're just watching the magic happen inside your machine and you have the time go ahead and give us a like on this video if you appreciate it so far that would be very encouraging for us to make more videos in the future and if you're interested in seeing those videos in the future please click subscribe to our youtube channel on techlazer and we'll be sure to keep those videos coming well now it's time to unveil the
(05:40) material test card just to note there is a knot in my wood right there so i'm gonna just make a mental note of that so it doesn't reflect my engraved settings and i don't change anything according to that as i pull it up you'll see there are some circles that drop out of place those are the best settings that i have on this machine so far but looking through the light i can see that there is some circles that are cut out just haven't popped out yet so i'm going to give assistance right here and i'm just going to use my thumb to pop out those
(06:06) anything that comes out easy i'm gonna count as good settings but the ones that are more difficult i'm gonna count those as bad settings so i'm not gonna go ahead and use those holes and i want them to stay in place so next time in the future i'll know not to use them so let's go ahead and read the card uh you'll see that obviously all the circles that are cut out are good settings i can use to cut through this material something like this middle ground 15 millimeters a second at 30 power is what i plan on using in the
(06:34) future it's a good combination of speed and power that'll help preserve my tube life so i can do 20 power but then i'll knock my millimeters a second down to 10 and that might be a little too slow for me the image engraving test here is a great example of what the machine can do you'll see every single step of the way it gets from light to dark so dither worked out great for us and the settings i chose were on point now the font selection you can see at the top the smaller font doesn't work for the outline i might do engrave next time
(07:06) but i now know not to use that smaller font i'll go ahead and show you the backside one more time these weren't optimal cut settings they were almost there maybe two and a half percent would have been good a little bit more but at the five percent drop of power for the speed settings it just didn't quite punch through so if you want to do a more in-depth test uh something that has a smaller gap between power ranges and speed lightburn has a function built in to do a material test so you can go up to laser tools up the top
(07:38) uh select your material test and you'll see a dialog box that opens up that you can actually run these tests with so here i have it set to power and speed just like our actual omtec card is i'm going to change that from 10 squares to 5 squares i don't feel like i need that many but if you do want to go in depth you can leave it at 10.
(07:57) then you can set your power and you can set your speed and you can change the variables so you can understand your machine and see how that affects each material you decide to load up so the fact that lightburn has this built into their software kind of goes to show how important it is to kind of run these tests on your materials and see how all of these variables change the output of your machine and how it affects the engraving and cutting so play around with these functions a little bit and try a couple different
(08:26) numbers here and there and see how it affects the output of your machine to the material that you chose so that wraps up our video today on the material test card if you found this video useful please make sure to give us a like and also subscribe to see more videos like this come out in the future i hope this helps you understand why a material card is important and why it might be useful to have on hand in the future so that way next time you load your material up you have a better idea of what the effects are going to be with
(08:53) the settings that you chose again if you liked the video give us a like and also a subscribe and if you have any questions let us know down below in the comments thanks so much you
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Shrnutí: Vytvoření testovací karty materiálů pomocí LightBurn
Účel testovací karty materiálů:
Testovací karta pomáhá určit optimální nastavení rychlosti a výkonu pro gravírování a řezání různých materiálů.
Každý laser a materiál má specifické vlastnosti, které ovlivňují výsledky.
Obsah testovací karty:
Řezací test: Různé kombinace rychlosti a výkonu pro identifikaci správných nastavení.
Gravírovací test: Šedotónová stupnice (0–100 %) pro testování obrazových režimů (např. dither).
Test velikosti písma: Ukazuje, která velikost písma je vhodná pro obrysové nebo plné gravírování.
Praktický postup:
Nastavte ohniskovou vzdálenost pomocí nástroje poskytnutého OMTech.
Otevřete soubor testovací karty v LightBurn, označte použitý materiál a nastavte parametry podle vrstev.
Ukázkové nastavení:
Příklad nastavení: 10 mm/s při 40 % výkonu a 30 mm/s při 20 % výkonu.
Pro gravírování: 150 mm/s, 20 % výkonu, 300 DPI, režim „dither“.
Výsledky testu:
Řezy s dobře oddělenými kruhy označují optimální nastavení.
Gravírování šedotónové stupnice ukazuje přechody od světlých po tmavé odstíny.
Důležité poznámky:
Výsledky gravírování mohou být ovlivněny vadami materiálu (např. suky).
Pokud se některé kruhy neoddělí snadno, označte je jako nevyhovující.
Tipy pro efektivitu:
Testovací kartu můžete gravírovat přímo na materiál pro budoucí použití.
LightBurn má vestavěnou funkci „Material Test“ pro podrobnější testování.
Použití funkce Material Test v LightBurn:
Nastavte počet čtverců, rychlost a výkon pro detailní testy.
Experimentujte s různými nastaveními pro lepší pochopení vlivu na výsledek.
Doporučení:
Udržujte knihovnu testovacích karet pro různé materiály.
Přesné testování prodlouží životnost laserové trubice a zlepší kvalitu výstupu.
Výzva k podpoře:
Sledujte další videa a zanechte otázky nebo komentáře pro další tipy a návody.
Tato testovací karta je užitečný nástroj pro optimalizaci nastavení laseru a dosažení nejlepších výsledků pro různé materiály.
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Summarize the following content in 5-16 bullet points with timestamp if it's transcript. in Chezch.
Název:
Solve Laser Scorching without Masking or Sanding - YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYF_lpzVlgc
Transcript:
(00:00) hey guys today I'm going to show you how to go from bad cuts and Engravings like this all the way to getting nice perfect cuts and Engravings like that and we're going to get there by going through several real examples here that show how to adjust each variable along the way believe it or not it actually took me months to figure out how to do this correctly and so I'm hoping I can save you some time and some hassle in this video by walking you through the process that I used to get to such nice results and I should also mention that we're
(00:27) going to get to these nice clean perfect cuts and Engravings like this without using any type of masking or any type of sanding and so that's pretty important because it can actually save you a ton of time if you're able to get these same results that I'm going to show you how to get here in this video today but in order for this to work at all you actually have to get multiple things all working together correctly and I very creatively call them the four ingredients to Perfect Cuts and Engravings so let's go ahead and jump
(00:52) right into ingredient number one which is airflow first off let me just briefly Define what I mean by airflow and in this case I'm specifically talking about the air flow that goes underneath your material so for example if you are trying to do a engraving directly on top of a spoiler board or just a piece of scrap wood like that then this would be what I would call no airflow but before I talk about how to actually improve your air flow I wanted to first show you some examples of the difference that this actually makes so first of all this
(01:20) is our no airflow example so this is basically the Baseline and it would be that scenario I showed you just a second ago of where your material is just setting straight on a spoiler board or a piece of scrapple W and as you can see here the uh cuts and the engraves look decent on the front but if you flip to the back that's where you really notice how bad the scorching can get and so this is obviously charred really bad on the edges there's a lot of scorching across across the material all the way around here and so you really don't want
(01:49) this especially if you're trying to do a project that is double-sided this is a really bad result and so you can improve this by improving your air flow and there's a couple of ways you can do this the first one is the most common and it's probably the the 80% Solution that's going to work pretty well for most people most of the time and that's using a honeycomb so if you don't know what a honeycomb is I'll show you just a little clip of what that looks like this is a honeycomb um but anyway with a honeycomb you again have a similar
(02:18) looking front but then when you flip it over um you'll notice that the the scorching is much improved there's still some little black Scorch Marks here uh here and here and you can see there's a bit on the top as well and so if you were making this for like a business say you'd probably have to do a little bit of touch-ups maybe it's just some spot sanding in these places but it is dramatically improved over what you did uh with the spoiler board that I showed you just a minute ago with the no air flow situation and so that's the sort of
(02:48) 80% solution if you wanted to take this a step farther you can also do what I call the Jerry rigged elevation or basically making a custom airflow jig uh I'll show you a clip here this an example example of one that I use in my own laser business and basically what this is is just some scrap blocks of wood glued to a piece of uh aluminum I believe it is a piece of sheet metal here and basically I use this as as a jig I put a piece of panel on it like that and it basically creates air flow on all of the places where I need the
(03:21) air flow to be for a product that I do pretty frequently in my laser business and so the thing that this is solving for the the Jerry rigged elevation here is I'll show you on the back if we flip it over and look at the cut you can see that there's basically no Scorch marks at all and I think this is most uh useful comparison when you compare to the honeycomb so I have the honeycomb here on the left and I have uh the Jerry rigged solution here on on the right and so these little on the honeycomb these little black points that you get here
(03:50) are from flashback from the little uh filaments that make up the honeycomb but with my Jerry riged solution I don't really get that at all you'll see some black here but I think that's actually just uh some of the gooey stuff from when I set this on top of another piece of plywood it's not actually a Scorch Mark and so it's really clean all the way around and uh yeah so if you want to kind of take it from 80% to 100% clean then you could create your own little jig like this or use some other solution that's going to eliminate that flashback
(04:19) that you get with your honeycomb but even with perfect airflow you could still get bad scorching along the sides like this if you don't also have ingredient number two dialed in which is actually your AOS IST so let's talk about that now if you've already watched other videos on laser engraving then it's very possible that you've heard about a assist before however there's probably more to it than you think and in fact you might find that some of the things you've heard before are actually just plain wrong but before you angry
(04:46) comment at me let me explain using some actual real examples that I cut out on my laser while changing the a assist variable okay so first of all here is our Baseline if you do not use a assist at all you're very likely to bad Scorch marks both on the top of your engraving like this and also on the back and in fact it's possible that your material won't always uh cut all the way through so you can see there's some little uh hairs here where it didn't perfectly cut all the way through the material and so those are some things that can happen
(05:17) but also another thing that can happen is if you don't use air assist is you could actually have flame risk you could have some of your material uh catch on fire which is of course not good or you could have it not cut all the way through the material um and so this is a really important thing to know how to use so then you might go out and get yourself a basic air assist pump so for example I'll put a little clip in here of the first one that I got you may have one like this or may have seen them before and uh this is
(05:43) a a pretty basic little pump and what I eventually learned is that these have a PSI rating of about 4.35 PSI and you can tell that it does actually help a lot to Red reduce the scorching on the front so compared to the left hand side here with no air assist this this is obviously much much better but it still does have a tiny bit of scorching so you can see this little point on the corner there has a little bit of scorch marks there uh in the corner and then if you flip it over you can see much more so there
(06:13) definitely is still scorching here on the right hand side with that uh small air assist pump in very long story short I eventually learned that the reason that it wasn't cutting out perfectly without those Scorch marks there is simply because of the power so as I mentioned these little air pumps have about four .
(06:31) 35 PSI and I should also mention that there is nothing special or laser specific about these air assist pumps even though they are marketed for laser engraving they are really just little air compressors and if you've seen my previous video where I compare using one of these air assist pumps with a fish tank pump with a very similar construction then you'll know that it got basically identical uh performance but you can even also compare this with just a regular air compressor so I have an air compressor here so let me just demonstrate this here real quickly and
(07:00) set it it's hard to set it precisely but I set it close to the same range about four to five PSI and um as you can see on the cut so look only at the cut here um that the the results are nearly identical that little Scorch Mark that we have uh here in the upper right hand corner for this exol pump you basically get the exact same thing on the air compressor it's just on the upper leftand corner and so that's probably where the cut started and stopped in each case it just happened at a different location but if we we look at
(07:29) the front here I think you agree that the cut is essentially identical and then if we flip it over again you're getting scorching on on both sides and I would say that the performance here is very very similar between these two but the reason we're talking about this at all is because what I eventually learned is that the power was the problem that I was having and so if we put these aside we can then pick up this uh little sample here which is a assist on and I've written just in pin because I forgot to put it in the engraving but 20
(07:58) psi and ignore ignore the text for now we're just looking at the cuts we'll come back to the text in a moment so if you look around the cut real closely here you'll notice that there are no Corner Scorch marks like we had so already on the front it's slightly better but then let's look at the back so here on the back we're also doing much better there's a tiny bit of scorching over here you can kind of see that there's a tiny bit of scorching over there uh but overall it's much much better than uh our little pump so let's
(08:27) let's just compare here on the left is our little pump here on the right is our air compressor set to 20 psi and obviously this on the right is just a a much cleaner result and by the way everything in this video is basically an abbreviated version of what I teach in my diode laser boot camp and so if you like this approach then you might also like to check that out there is a link in the description below but now let's go back to the Engravings because you probably noticed that this engraving here looks pretty messy and so now it's
(08:54) time to do a little bit of mythbusting one thing that I've heard people talk about online and maybe you've seen or heard this too is that you should pretty much always use your air assist for cuts and Engravings but in my experience what actually works best is to use your a assist for cuts and to actually turn it off for Engravings so let me prove this to you here real quickly so here is another sample that I'll just grab and pull in here and here what I've done is I've done the cut with my airist set 220 PSI and then I've just completely turned
(09:24) it off for the engraving and so as you can see on the front there are no noticeable scorching marks from the the cut and then if I look at the back um it's it's pretty clean we've got a little bit of scorching here at the top um and that I think I did this on a honeycomb and so that is probably the flashback from the honeycomb but overall it is still cleaner than our X Tool uh pump example here our small pump example here much cleaner and so the the cut is still pretty clean because we're using our our 20 psi but also you'll notice
(09:56) that the engrave is way cleaner this first example where I was using 20 psi all around so in this one I used 20 psi air assist on the engraving and on the cut and on this one here I used 20 psi for the cut but I turned it off entirely for the engraving and you can see it's just way cleaner and this is actually the the same setup essentially as I used originally to get that uh that perfect example here that I showed you I think the only difference if my memory is serving me correctly here between this sample and my perfect sample is that for
(10:31) the perfect sample I used the the like custom or Jerry rigged airflow uh setup and for this one I think I used the honeycomb and that would explain that the reason why there's still a little bit of scorching here but there's not on my perfect sample and so these are really kind of showing you the the clues to having your perfect setup for perfect cuts and Engravings but before you get too excited we've also got to talk about ingredient number three which is one of the things that beginners most often get stuck on and that is dialing in your
(11:02) power and speed settings because that is also going to affect how these cuts and engraves turn out so let me just say if you don't have your power and speed settings dialed in correctly that's another thing that can lead you to getting bad results that are going to look something like this but the good news is I've already covered exactly how to find your own perfect power and speed settings in the lightburn 101 video that's also in the series speaking of which if you didn't know this already the video you're watching right now is
(11:26) actually part of a series that's a laser engraving 10 One Mini course that I'm publishing here on YouTube so I put a link to the playlist that contains the Full Series at the end of this video if you want to learn how to dial in your own power and speed settings or if you want to watch the full series so if you've got your airflow your air assist and your power and speed settings all day then then there's one more thing that could cause problems if you don't also have it set up correctly and that is ingredient number four which is your
(11:52) laser focus different machines do this differently so I can't give you a one- siiz fits-all demonstration of how to do this but just as one example example I'll show you how this process is done on my xtool D1 Pro I go and I take the material I put it underneath the laser head and then I raise or lower the laser head module such that this little kickstand that's on the side is going to touch the material and then I can tighten the laser head into place so double check how to do this on your own laser machine because having this out of
(12:19) whack really can contribute to bad Engravings or cuts and with that all said this is the link right here to the laser engraving 101 mini course that I talked about earlier so if you just click or tap on that it'll take you right to it and if you are relatively new to laser engraving then I highly recommend that you check that out because there's a lot of fundamental skills and information in there that I think is going to help you go from knowing nothing about laser engraving all the way to being able to complete
(12:42) your first project so I'll see you over there bye
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Shrnutí: Řešení spálení při laserovém gravírování bez maskování nebo broušení
Cíl videa:
Naučit, jak dosáhnout čistých řezů a gravírování bez maskování nebo broušení.
Prezentován proces a 4 klíčové faktory pro dosažení ideálních výsledků.
První faktor – Proudění vzduchu:
Nedostatečné proudění vzduchu: Vede k silnému spálení zadní strany materiálu.
Použití plástvového roštu (honeycomb): Snižuje spálení, ale zanechává drobné stopy od odrazů.
Vlastní zvýšení materiálu: Alternativa, která eliminuje odrazy a dosahuje 100% čistoty.
Druhý faktor – Air Assist (pomocný vzduch):
Bez air assistu: Vyšší riziko spálení, neproříznutí materiálu a možného vznícení.
Malé vzduchové pumpy: Zlepšují výsledky, ale stále zanechávají stopy.
Silnější kompresory (20 PSI): Výrazně čistí řez i gravírování.
Mýtus o air assistu:
Doporučeno: Používat air assist pouze při řezech, vypnout při gravírování pro čistší výsledky.
Třetí faktor – Nastavení výkonu a rychlosti:
Správné nastavení je klíčové pro čistý výsledek bez spálených okrajů.
Podrobné pokyny k nastavení výkonu a rychlosti jsou dostupné v přidruženém videu.
Čtvrtý faktor – Ostření laseru:
Precizní ostření laseru je nezbytné pro ostré gravírování a řezy.
Každý stroj má specifický proces, například pomocí opěrky na hlavě laseru.
Shrnutí doporučení:
Optimalizujte všechny 4 faktory (proudění vzduchu, air assist, výkon a rychlost, ostření).
Testujte a přizpůsobte postup specifickým podmínkám a materiálům.
Dodatečné zdroje:
Video je součástí mini kurzu „Laser Engraving 101“ s odkazy na další návody pro začátečníky.
Tento postup šetří čas a zajišťuje profesionální výsledky bez nutnosti dodatečného zpracování.
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