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Lightly waxed for hand stitching and corded for strength, Fil au Chinois Lin Câblé is probably the best linen thread in the world. Used by Hermès, Louis Vuitton and us. Made in France.
Cablé linen (corded linen) is twisted linen which is assembled a second time, moistened and re-twisted. This moistening prevents the linen fibres from distorting. Cabling increases the resistance, giving a nicely rounded thread generally used in luxury leather goods. It's a luxury thread which can be used for quality jewelry making, DIY...
Cablé linen, corded linen, is a high quality thread. As with all the products from Fil Au Chinois, this quality product is entirely MADE IN FRANCE.
This linen thread is waxed for easier handling and is made in the north of France, traditional home of 'Fil au Chinois'.
Fil au Chinois "Lin Cable" Waxed Linen Thread + Similar items
Waxed Linen Thread
- Colour n°105 - Naturel (natural)
- Colour n°128 - Rouge (red)
- Colour n°180 - Noir (Black)
- Colour n°185 - Beige (Beige)
- Colour n°200 - Bonbon (pink)
- Colour n°218 - Violet (Violet)
- Colour n°246 - Matelot (Navy)
- Colour n°266 - Bleu (Blue)
- Colour n°276 - Marron (Brown)
- Colour n°298 - Lichen (Lichen)
- Colour n°330 - Daim (Fawn)
- Colour n°346 - Aubergine (Aubergine)
- Colour n°359 - Gris (Grey)
- Colour n°369 - Terre (Soil)
- Colour n°419 - Oranger (Orange)
- Colour n°425 - Brique (Brick)
- Colour n°448 - Jade (Jade)
- Colour n°455 - Ver clair (light green)
- Colour n°494 - Sapin (Pine)
- Colour n°497 - Mauve (Mauve)
- Colour n°508 - Jaune (Yellow)
- Colour n°571 - Bis (Ecru)
- Colour n°643 - Mousse (Moss)
- Colour n°665 - Royal Blue (Roy)
- Colour n°750 - Paon (Peacock)
- Colour n°767 - Vert (Green)
- Colour n°812 - Marine (Marine)
- Colour n°863 - Canard (Duck)
- Colour n°872 - Ardoise (Slate)
- Colour n°901 - Marron fonce (Dark brown)
- Colour n°992 - Souris (Mouse)
RoyalWood Ltd Irish Waxed Linen Thread royalwoodltd.com
I bought some thread from RoyalWood after reading this thread, and figured I'd give it a try; it's only money, right?
If you are looking for the thread used by Hermes, it is Câblé linen, which sized from No. 332 up to No. 832. No. 532 is used on Birkin and Kelly bags. However, if the wholesaler in your country is not importing this product line, more likely you would have to purchase from Sajou.fr.
By the way, the length of each spool stated on Sajou.fr are not correct, it is not always 133 meters per spool. You can find correct information on their "Printed Colour Chart" which is listed on 3rd page of Professional Threads...
In addition, No. 532 is pretty thin thread,
No. 10 (2.7mm) and
No. 9 (3 mm) claws from Vergez Blanchard, just for your reference.
Finally, Lin Retors Extra comes in one size only, judging from the length of each 50g spool, 350 meters, the diameter of the thread would land on somewhere in between 0.51mm-0.43mm (Cable Linen No. 632-832). If you are planning to make fine, long lasting leather work, Cable Linen would be the choice.
Dallas Designing Dreams Online Academy
Crawford Waxed Irish Linen Thread/Cord 18/4ply -0.82 mm- approx 100 yds.
Tiger Polyester Braided Thread Waxed
Also known as Ritza 25 this is very strong braided polyester thread which is waxed for hand sewing. Manufactured by Danish company Julius Koch
Best Thread For Saddle Stitching? leatherworker.net forum
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The Best Way to Sew Leather Is Actually By Hand! Here's How - Waxed Thread and Sinew
|Hand Stitching Leather|
Lin cable thread sizes
16/5 20/3 30/3
This was shared by a Korean craftsmen.
Here we have a vergez blanchard size 10 pricking iron with the various fil au chinois Lin cable thread sizes
Another vergez blanchard pricking iron size reference chart
A quick comparison of Amy Roke Radiant yellow linen sizes and red 632 Lin Cablè. Top row is AR 532, middle 632, and bottom is 832. Sewn at nine stitches per inch
Some thread at work. 632 left 832 right. 9 stitches per inch - amyrokelinenusa
Basic Sheath Questions: Finishes, Sewing, Glueing
HEI - instagram.com
Stitching consistency is the most important thing!
We have a chart that shows our different thread thicknesses in the same 9tpi stitch count. 0.1mm doesn’t seem like a lot, but you can see the difference in thickness, especially side by side.
(Number 9tpi = Nine Teeth per Inch)
I recommend 532 or 632 thread at 9tpi if you’re going to use just one size of pricking iron and thread.
The 9tpi is an all-around good size for both bags and accessories. This is what I use the majority of the time and it works great for finer work.
If you’re going to 7tpi, I recommend the thicker 332. The smaller threads don’t look great at low stitch counts and won’t hold the seam as long. The 332 looks good for larger work like handbags and duffels. Again, you can use 9tpi and 632 for larger work, but some styles match better with the thicker look.
If you’re going to use 6tpi or larger, I’d actually recommend a different line of thread that has thicker sizes. I don’t see the larger sizes used much in luxury/fine work, though they are often used in more rugged styles.
If you’re doing very fine work like watch straps, I’d recommend 832 at 10 or 11 tpi. This gives a more delicate feel to the work and the thread looks more appropriate to the size of the project.
Recently I did a tear-down of a luxury bag and saw that there were two thread thicknesses being used on different parts.
They used the equivalent of 332 for the straps and handles at 7tpi, and 632 at 9 tpi for the rest. The size difference seemed to be more for aesthetics since both would hold up equally well.
Small details make finer workMaking finer work is all about the details. There are often many small differences that separate the very best work from its competitors. Our thread is re-twisted to make it a little bit denser than others. You would think that the difference would be minor but, as others have confirmed, it really makes the thread stand out.
Similarly, you can do a number of things to make the thread-related details of your work better. Below are a few that you can try individually or all together.
Contrasting stitch. Use a lighter color thread on a darker leather or vice versa to really highlight your stitching work. It is also a way of challenging yourself to improve your sewing because it will really stand out.
Match color to lining or edging. If you match the exterior thread to the interior of the bag, it can really make the colors “pop” when the bag is opened. A good example of this technique is to use red thread on the outside of a gray bag to highlight a red interior.
Minimize the hole size. If you’re using a drill or lace marker, mark your stitches using a tool to make smaller holes like a pricking iron or pricking wheel. Minimizing the hole structurally makes the stitches stronger and gives it a nicer look.
Sew instead of riveting. Using rivets is a big time saver for creating belts or straps, but sewing them can create a finer look. Though it takes more time to sew a strap closed than it does to rivet it, the results are worth it.
25 Saddlers' Harness needles in John James' distinctive yellow and black paper envelope
We carry two needle sizes to compliment our threads
55mm length x 1.02mm diameter
Best for linen threads 332-432
50mm length x 0.86mm diameter
Best for linen threads 532-832
Specialty NeedlesWe've expanded our offering to include additional needles
57mm length x 1.09mm diameter
Best for large threads
60mm length x 1.42mm diameter
Best for larger threads
60mm length x 1.63mm diameter
For largest threads
Glovers Size 2
44mm length x 0.86mm diameter
Glovers needles have triangle tips for sewing through shearling/wool.
Glovers Size 4
40mm length x 0.76mm diameter
Glovers needles have triangle tips for sewing through shearling/wool.
John James - L3910 Glovers / Leather Needles
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